My trip to Norway, the wonderful kingdom of the north

A few years have passed but I still have the rememberance and a need to share this experience. We were in May 2007 and  decided to visit a friend of us that was working in Bergen, Norway. Our TAP flight departed from Lisbon, directly to Oslo and from there we toke a SAS plane to Bergen. In Bergen we stayed in a very cosy, cheap, friendly and central place – Gullaksen Guesthouse. After leaving our stuff in the bedroom, we, already with our friend, went to Opera café to eat something and make first contact with the norwegian culture. Next day was the time to get to know the first impressions of the city. In Torgallmeningen we went to buy two tickets in the tourist office, for next day´s Norway in a Nutshel trip. After that, we went to the very well known fish market and meet some Sara´s colleagues – two brazilians, one from São Paulo and other from João Pestana (It may seems strange but, I know the places where they are from and I can´t remember their names!).:-)

All together we visited Bryggen -  the hanseatic wharf and Unesco World Heritage Site, and by now, the oldest part of the city. In Bryggen we feel and breed a truly nordic atmosphere. The wooden houses are just amazing and if you get yourself into the narrow alleys and feel the smell of the wood, it seems you travel in time, a few centurys ago, when this same place was an important trading center.

Throughout history, Bryggen has experienced many fires, the more recent in 1955, but by now the houses seems to be in perfect conditions and very well painted. After lunch in Peppes Pizza, we then made a hike to the top of Mount Fløyen offering us a breathtaking panoramic view of Bergen town, its wonderful fjords and Askøy island in the background. Nordnes peninsula is now perfectly visible.

The day was hot and  in the way down we toke the funicular,  because we were all very tired… well not “all”, because the brazilians were fresh as a daisy :-) . This funicular is one of Norway’s most famous tourist attractions, and the only cable car of its kind in all Scandinavia.

Next day we rose up very early to start the Norway in a Nutshell trip. It started in Bergen railway station and it was from the window of the train that we made the first contact with the beauty of the fjords and the norwegian landscape. It stopped in Voss and there we catched a bus that would leading us to Stalheim and later to Gudvangen. The trip to Stalheim was very pleasant and we were once again amazed by what we were seeing.

In Stalheim we visited the hotel’s own private Museum of Folk Art, wich is one of the largest in Norway and experienced the stunning view of Nærøydalen valley, a view that is known from several paintings, in particular Johan Christian Dahl‘s painting “Fra Stalheim” from 1842. The Norwegian poet Per Sivle, about Stalheim´s view, said  “A view so grand and wild, there is hardly a home in Norway that can match it!”.

Lots of photos were taken and after that we continued our trip, trough Stalheimskleiva. Built between 1842 and 1846, the road is closed due to the snow from October to March, is one of the steepest roads in Northern Europe with 20% grade. It has 13 bends and a wonderful waterfall – Stalheimsfossen.

A few minutes later, in Gudvangen, the bus stopped and in front of us was the breathtaking Nærøyfjord, a branch of Sognefjord, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A boat was waiting for us and preparing to leave to Flåm, and I can tell you that it probably was the most beautiful boat trip that we´ve made. The steep mountains just next to us, the calm water reflecting like a mirror all the details of the landscape, the crisp air and the silence, were unforgetable. During the trip we saw in the mountains, some isolated wooden houses, the typical norwegian hytte. Probably were some family´s second houses, wich is very common in Norway. People have the need to escape from the cities and choose these isolated places in the wild because, so, they feel the beauty of nature more deeply. For two glorious hours, camera-clicking tourists hurry around the deck like nervous roosters, scratching for a photo that will catch the magic. But that will be completely impossible!


And then we arrive at Flåm, a very picturesque village full of beautiful wooden houses and is situated in the innermost part of the Aurlandsfjord, an arm of the Sognefjord, surrounded by beautiful mountains. By the way, Flåm means “little place between steep mountains”, wich is completely true.

Here we caught a train to Myrdal. The railway track between Flåm and Myrdal is one of the steepest in the world, wich adding to the magnificent scenery, makes Flåmsbana a major tourist attraction. The top station Myrdal is 865 metres above sea level, while Flåm is by the fjord, at sea level. In order to manage the climb up the mountainside, the 20 km line twists and turns and has twenty tunnels to gain altitude. We were presented, once again, with 55 minutes of breathtaking views.

Once arrived at Myrdal we then caught the train back to Bergen. A beautiful and unforgetable trip was made!

Next day, was time to fly to Stavanger, however, due to the intense fog, the flight was delayed until afternoon. Until that we decided to visit Fantoft Stave Church, near Bergen. Fantoft Stavekirke is a church entirely made of wood that was originally built in Fortun in Sogn, around the year 1150. In the 19th century the church was threatened by demolition, as were hundreds of other stave churches in Norway. The church was bought by consul Fredrik Georg Gade and saved by moving it in pieces to Fantoft near (now in) Bergen in 1883. On 6 June 1992 the church was destroyed by arson but a reconstruction of an exact copy was initiated, and completed in 1997.

In the afternoon the fog rose up and we flyed to Stavanger.

Stavanger is the petroleum capital of Norway and only grew to its position among the most important Norwegian cities, in the second half of the 20th century, after oil was discovered in the North Sea.

One of the must see things, is Norway’s oldest cathedral, Stavanger domkirke, wich is situated in the city centre, right next to Breiavatnet lake, both shown on the photos above.

Our friend, Sara, had the contact of Pedro, a portuguese resident that works there as a dentist, who invited us to stay a night in his apartment – the good and typical portuguese hospitality! He showed us the city and the night mood, a little different from Bergen, wich is more vibrant and young, due to the university. Altough, Stavanger has also it´s own charm.

Next day was the time to get back to Bergen but only in the afternoon, so we had lots of time to get to know more the city. Due to the fog we didn´t risk to go to Prekestolen, so we decided to made a cruise in the Lysefjord. The weather was cloudy and once the boat began to move, we could feel the cold air. I was the only one who was standing in the deck, only with jeans, a sweat shirt  and a tracksuit top, shaking with cold, allways moving to get warm and trying to see everything I could… Norwegian fjords are imense!!!

After some time the boat stopped. We arrived at the place where Prekestolen stands. To who don´t know, Prekestolen is a massive cliff with 604 VERTICAL (!) metres (1982 feet), formed in the Ice Age, 10.000 years ago. The top of the cliff is approximately 25 by 25 metres (82 by 82 feet) square, almost flat, opposite the Kjerag plateau, and is a famous tourist attraction in Norway. The english translation of Prekestolen is Pulpit Rock, because it really seems a pulpit!

It was yet a lot of fog but we could see the extraordinary cliff who was standing before us.

In Prekestolen the boat turned around to Stavanger. We arrived at the middle of the day and in time to try a greek restaurant nearby – Akropolis. All of us where quite happy with our lunch.

The afternoon was to walk in the old Stavanger. Gamle Stavanger, the ancient Stavanger, is the oldest side of the town and you can see many old white wooden houses built in the 18th-19th century, with small streets with rocks. To make a walk in this part of the town is like to come back in time. In fact you can feel the ancient atmosphere of the town. Today Gamle Stavangeris full of artists and you can buy paintings, potteries, jewels and much more. The area was under threat of demolition some years ago, but thanks to a group of enthusiasts the project was stopped and the whole area preserved. Present buildings date from 1830-1890.

In late afternoon was time to go back to the airport to catch the flight back to Bergen.

Next day we visited Bergen´s Natural History museum. De naturhistoriske samlinger, together with the Cultural History museum, is one of the two departments of University Museum of Bergen  – a part of the University of Bergen wich houses one of the largest collections of cultural and natural history objects in Norway . University Museum of Bergen was founded in 1825 and now is also the caretaker of the botanical garden surrounding the natural history building, and the city’s arboreum.

The Natural History Collections include botanical, geological and zoological exhibitions. Most of the zoological exhibits are old and well preserved and give visitors a feeling of being transported back in time .

At the end of the afternoon we visited a very pleasant and calm place : The United Sardine Factory (USF). This old factory is located at the Georgernes Verft in Bergen and was once the largest cannery in Norway. Now, USF is a multiple cultural arena, unique in size and variety. Arts and culture are produced, organised and presented in several forms and genres. We had a great time at Kafe Kippers one of the best places for a meal or just a drink when the weather’s warm. Located on the pier, this Bergen’s largest outdoor restaurant in the summertime, can accomodate 500 guests, that can enjoy the most beautiful fjord views, as well as the sunset.

This was our last day in Norway, and in this pear, this afternoon, watching the calm waters of the fjord, I was starting to feel the sadness that next day departure would bring to me.

Next day, we rose up very early, at 5 a.m. and was already daylight. It was time to go to the airport and to catch the flight back home.

This beautiful trip was coming to an end but the moments we lived, will stay forever in our minds.

Norway is an unforgetable place. Not only because of the breathtaking landscapes, but mainly because of the relationship that the norwegians have with nature and the way they see life. They give the most relevance to the simple things of life, wich in fact, are the most important.

Already over the Atlantic ocean, I have only a certainty: One day, I will return to the wonderful kingdom of the north!